March 23, 2011
D’venue Guest Hotel
Masindi, Uganda
Philip Arscott
Departing Kakamega was a little later than expected, but that helped me on several levels. First, as mentioned previously, my genetic disposition includes the uncanny ability to pack a plethora of items in a small space. My first 45 minutes of being awake required testing my ability to remember and adjust how I packed all these things before. Second, due to #1, I was late getting downstairs, dragging my excessive baggage and feeling more and more like a tourist with each “thump” down the stairs that resonated throughout the hotel. However, I kept reassuring myself- “you are going to be here for a while, so surely you’re going to use everything you’ve packed?” Third, I enjoyed a nice, relaxing breakfast as the sun filled the compound and Anne, Sarah and I discussed the upcoming drive. When Wilson pulled in to Sheywey, we were ready to depart, 2 eggs, one cup of tea digested and ready to go.
We began the journey in earnest- Anne and I attempting to discuss several Operations topics and take notes. This was subtly finished once the smooth tarmac gave rise to unpredictable roads, potholes and tire ruts dictating the course of the car and thus our bodies within. I was quietly happy regarding the change in surface, as I was now able to stare and explore the realm of Kenya from Kakamega to the Ugandan border. I found that even though the road was not an author’s dream easel, I began jotting down notes of what I was seeing and now as I look at notebook- I see that the road was truly deciding my writing ability. But here is what I can decipher:
Markets full, busy with people going this way and that. Tarmac ahead has the distinguished look of snow-covered roads in the dead of winter, but instead of snow, asphalt forms the tire ruts. Sugarcane as far as the eye can see and a distinct change after Bungoma, as Tobacco becomes the crop of choice. In the rush past the sites and sounds, distinctly fire red flowers blossom on stick figure trees, Tororo Rock visible on the horizon as the border approaches. A woman with her baby clutched riding side-saddle on the back of a bicycle. Trucks, trucks and more trucks- lined up in an endless cue awaiting customs. Shops quickly changing from the norm to adhering to the traveling crowd and finally, the countless, kind gentlemen waiting to help us at the border with our paper work.
Wilson parked the car and we joined the line for customs. Some other mzungos where ahead but not from America, they seemed to have acquired a level of grit I am only now three weeks in beginning to appreciate. The sun was beating down and few people at the border are joyous about being there, however I will always remember and thank a man who warded off another who was soliciting money from those in line. He simply told the man (who had found the bottle at the wrong time of day) to leave those in line at peace, and our peace keeper did not seek or ask for anything in return (he was selling leather purses and wallets)- always nice when you feel that sense of common humanity. After much time in the sun and a brief stint in the shade of an awning, I handed my passport over to the man behind the glass, who quite officially reviewed it (the many pages of stamps in no particular order), took my picture then slammed his stamp down indicating I had left the building- well country. We then hopped back in the car and sought to pass through Uganda customs and grab visas. This was a painless process, although I dodged a bullet because Anne had enough money to cover me- I had been anticipating an ATM at the border but it had recently been closed.
With my Ugandan seal of approval, we then had the arduous task of waiting for our driver to arrive from Soroti. This can sometimes be much more work than planned and we sat for what ended up being an enjoyable hour and a half, only due to a boy who I began speaking with:
Soy (not sure of spelling, but lets go with Soy, like the bean), is a young boy roughly 12 years old. I spotted him with some beverages but upon feeling the bottles, I asked if he could get me a cold coca-cola. He abliged and ran away in the blink of an eye. A few minutes later, he returned with a cold one. He was very inquisitive and we began to discuss football (soccer). He remembered just about every goal from the world cup as well as the inner workings of the English Premier league. His favorite player is Wright-Phillips, but his knowledge of the entire league put me to shame. After some discussion another boy showed up and I asked if he was his brother, to which Soy replied, “He is my business partner.” This had me rolling and he seemed to acknowledge that his formal business etiquette may have exceeded his age. Speaking with Soy made me forget that we were waiting, in the no man’s land between Kenya and Uganda for our driver who was already an hour late. Though young, Soy’s energy and out-going manner took me by surprise and I can only imagine how it will help him in the future. When I travel back to Kenya along the same route, I’ll be sure to have something for him in case our paths cross again.
Our driver finally showed up and we have the ominous task of fitting our baggage into a smaller vehicle than the one in which we arrived. My bags caused the most problems, but luckily it is not take too much force to get the door shut. We bid farewell to Soy and his business partner as well as a few other kids who had taken notice of the mzungos profusely sweating in the equatorial heat. We drove no further than 40 yards before the Ugandan crossing guard inspected our cargo. He had no doubt watched us load the vehicle from a distance but nonetheless felt as though a quick investigation was necessary. Our driver handled the situation well and in no time we were allowed through.
Kenya gave way to Uganda in no time. It was as though the border crossing included other barriers besides a fence to divide the two countries. We were quickly overwhelmed by a greener landscape, with some rivers and streams quenching the soil’s thirst, compared to the more arid stretch of land we passed leaving Kenya. Anne and Sarah were sitting in the back chatting, but the wail of the engine and rush of wind made it impossible for me to join the conversation, so I simply sat and enjoyed the new view. Along the way we passed the expected fields of cassava- spine-like stems protruding from the earth with pointed leaves at the tips, looking gangly and awkward. Bananas abounded along with the wild mango trees lush with leaves and their prized cargo, rice along the river-banks where the characteristic flooding irrigation was evident. We approached children who claimed to be filling in potholes with dirt, but as we flew by their outstretched hands we saw their faces turn to frowns once they realized we weren’t buying the gimmick. As we finally approached Soroti, we drove along a stretch of road that had been washed away in a huge flood several years back. The new construction included huge pipes every 25 yards to so that ran underneath and perpendicular to the road, in the hope that the flood waters would pass through rather than overwhelm and demolish. I excitedly watched Soroti town appear on the horizon and grow successively bigger with each km, my new home for the year.
We pulled into Plains Country home (owned by former country director Michael Ewalu) and exited the car, our bodies vibrating internally from the ride (the car isn’t exactly a “smooth” ride, even on tarmac). After unloading the bags, we asked Robyn, who works at Plains for some sodas to cool off. Anne being the experienced Plains visitor, knew the best place to sit in the courtyard where we could relax. As we enjoyed our beverages and watched the chickens wander around the property, the wind began to pick up and we felt that omninous feeling that perhaps the outdoors is not the place to be. With that realization, plumes of began filling the air as the wind increased like something out of the Wizard of Oz. We quickly ran inside squinting in the feeble attempt to keep out the dust, and within minutes the wind was joined by rain, bringing much needed water albeit only a light shower.
We met the owner of the establishment and former Country Director of Uganda Michael Ewalu, who Anne knows well and wanted to give us a proper greeting. We discussed VEF stuff, sunflowers (he owns a sunflower oil mill as well) among other things- nice to have a steady conversation after the bumpy ride. A few moments later, Charles Erongot, current Country Director and Herbert Okello, Operations Director arrived. Just as with the Kenya staff, it was great to finally meet the people I’ve been in contact with via email for so many years. We took a seat outside and discussed the plans for the week- the main focus was getting Sarah out to vist the Sunflower Umbrella Groups so that she could learn how they’ve been saving and operating. Time flew past and as a cooler than normal breeze swept by the Plains courtyard, Charles and Herbert bid farewell for the evening.
Later that night, with the power characteristically out, we happily ate our dinner via headlamp enjoying a great tilapia stew, capping off the meal with sweet pineapple. With a full stomach and memories of the day’s journey, it was a breeze to fall asleep.
Week One in Kenya
Monday, March 14, 2011
Seven Seasons Guest House
Kampala, Uganda
By Philip Arscott
Considering how today marks the two week anniversary of my arrival in East Africa, figured it might be a good idea to finally put a post together. So, here it goes…
I arrived in Nairobi on March 1st, a brief 10 hour flight from London Heathrow. The flight was mainly a daze, partially due to my early wakening to catch the Heathrow Express, but more likely due to the late night I enjoyed visiting an old friend who resides in Islington. As people were preparing to debark, I noticed everyone was shedding layers of clothing in a uniform fashion that I’d never seen before. I quickly followed suit, but due to my genetics I had packed several extra layers in my carry on and had to resort to hanging a sweater from my bag’s strap. I was happy I did so, since I had to truck through the terminal to find an ATM to get some funds, convert the shillings to dollars, then purchase my visa. Although told to keep enough US dollars to take care of this, London has a tendency to empty your wallet.
The Visa process was simple and as I descended the stairs to the baggage claim, I could see both of my bags on the carousel. Perfect. Even better, as I walked towards the exit, I spotted Anne Olson, Director of Africa Operations, who was kindly waiting with a car and driver. This was obviously a great way to enter the Kenya atmosphere, with a friend, car and place nearby to stay. We traveled the dimly lit streets and turned onto an unpaved path that, even with Anne there, made me nervous. But my apprehension was ill advised, for we pulled into the Wildebeest Hotel after a short bumpy ride, and I knew I could rest soon. In true local fashion, the power had been out all evening so I signed in via flashlight. Wildebeest is a hotel, but its main attractions are the canvas safari-style tents that come stocked with a shower, bathroom and amazing ventilation. With my headlamp handy I put some things away, but exhaustion was the more formidable foe to settling and I quickly found myself laying down for rest. Luckily there was a generator on nearby, belching a screetching sound that had me fooled for a mutated cricket, making it easy to sleep (sarcasm). But the new environment and heat were the main factor for my weak sleep- I had anticipated this, but it’s amazing how many times you can look at your clock in a minute and think you’ve had hours of rest!
When the sun came up, I walked out of my tent to see Anne doing the same, so we headed to breakfast. Tea, two fried eggs and toast and I was ready for the day. I checked in with my parents to confirm I’d landed and settled safely- hearing their voice for the first time since leaving was a luxury for which I will always be indebted to mobile technology. The power came on around mid-morning, so Anne and I set to get to work and charge our devices. Having left the US office essentially a week earlier, (I sporadically went into the office the last week as I tried to organize my life into two bags) I was flooded with a barrage of emails and tasks to attend to. Although overwhelming, it helped keep my mind off of the heat and humidity. In the afternoon I began feeling hazy and went for a brief nap that ended up being 3 hours. Some of the best sleep I can remember and I not sure how I did it, as I was sweating and panting trying to stay cool. Either way, it was great to get some shut-eye and when I got up at 5, I decided to venture out to the shopping mall to track down some cheap sunglasses.
I by no means had a tour of Nairobi, but the small window I did view was intriguing. Matatus (mini-vans used for public transport) flying down the street often with arms, legs, baskets or something else hanging out of them, motorcycles, trucks spewing black smoke like miniature chimneys, men in suits and barefoot children, women in amazingly colorful garments, roadside stands selling fruits, vegetables, bags, hats, you name it, sidewalks crowded with the rush hour crowd, a man wearing a SF Giants cap who didn’t notice the one I was wearing and all the while feeling remarkably content. When I was in Tanzania three years earlier, I remember the paralyzing effect the new environment had on me. Not out of fear but due to the sheer newness of the place compared to everything I’d been used to. Perhaps I was still wakening from my nap and emotionally numb from sleep, but as the days have passed, I am happy to report that my brief stint in Tanzania really did help take the training wheels off.
Anyways, I entered the Yaya mall searching for shades and found that on each floor I went up, I could find cheaper pairs. I settled on some for a whopping 1,800 that, unbeknownst to me, were on sale for 500 shilling off, so I got them for a measly 1,300 shillings, roughly $16. Satisfied with the sale and discount, I headed back to the Wildebeest to get ready for the evening. Following a buffet dinner, we connected with Sarah Ellis, who works for the BOMA Fund and was going to be traveling with us for a while. It was a brief introduction, but great to add another person to the crew. We were headed to Kakamega in the morning, bright and early so I did not need much convincing to head to bed.
The 7:30 flight ended up being delayed for over an hour, quite the disappointment, as I know my body would have appreciated more rest. One great thing about the flight though, I was allowed to bring my huge 1 liter plastic water bottle on the plane. I always get thirsty above 5,000 feet, so this was a relief (ignoring the possibility of what you could do with that much liquid of a different nature). We briefly touched down in Eldoret- dropping off a few passengers and gaining some others, before completing the trek to Kakamega. Anne pointed out the Kakamega Forest, which was a beautiful swath of green in an otherwise brown and arid landscape. Everyone is waiting for the rains here, so I’m sure in a month or so it’d be a very different view from the air.
Upon landing, we made our way to the Sheywe Guest House in Kakamega, over poor roads and then a nicer tarmac. The roads are one of the more interesting things here- their importance is undeniable but their maintenance is near impossible. Too many trucks and not enough public investment, coupled with an intense rainy season and bouts of droughts, the dirt roads simply blow away until the rocks underneath act like a percussion massage therapist gone mad on your car and body. But we made it in one piece to be greeted by Lyndsay Holley Handler, the Sr. Director of Field Operations and Innovation, who was stoked to say the least to have us all there. We had a quick meal as we had not had time for breakfast, then Anne, Lyndsay and I sat down for the first ever Operations Meeitng from the East Africa with all members present! Although I am a Sr. Fellow, I’ll still be assisting with the implementation of the core program. We had plenty to discuss and I was thrilled to be part of the conversation.
Later I met Wilson Peru, Kenya Country Director, and Martin Theuri who is doing some consulting work for us, and we had a nice lunch in the Sheywe dining room. Afterwards, we trekked down the street to the VEF-Kenya Office, where I met Linnet Ayuma, Office manager and Charo Kalume, who’s been working on evaluations of our special projects. It is such a pleasure to finally meet our crew out there, as I’ve been emailing and having poorly connected phone conversations with some of them for three years now. We had a little meet and greet meeting and went over what everyone did so that we all knew where to turn to for different tasks. The rest of the day was composed of office work and getting comfy at Sheywe, dinner was nice -eating outside, with the thick scent of bug spray on my person and a lovely beef curry and chapatti. That is one thing I have craved since my exposure to them in Tanzania- Chapattis. They are very healthy and should be part of any dieter’s daily regime (sarcasm) but I love them all the same.
The following morning Martin, Sarah and I were headed to the field to visit some business groups to learn how and if they were saving. Sarah is putting together training modules for “Savings and Credit Groups,” what we at VEF call “Umbrella Groups (UG).” These groups have been formed in the past to help with many parts of our model, but going forward we’re planning on making it a standard in the program. Essentially, the Umbrella Groups are composed of businesses that are part of the same funding cycle usually revolving around the same industry although it is not a requirement. As each business is composed of five individuals and each umbrella is ten businesses, they make a very large unit that gives the individual businesses more options for success. UGs composed of the same type of businesses could purchase farm inputs in bulk for example, reducing the costs of operations and allowing them to achieve higher profits. More recently, UGs have begun to save money collectively, creating a source of credit in rural areas where otherwise there would be none. They form a constitution, laws and officers, to maintain organization and usually charge a fee if people miss meetings because it is vital that all members are in this together, and understand the system. As a group they can apply for a collective bank account, which of course requires a few governmental hoops to jump through. All in all, it is a very innovative way for these groups to create savings accounts as well as share information and to provide a single meeting place where we (VEF) can conduct future trainings if desired. As this is Sarah’s project, I was in for the ride (literally, on Pikis- motorcycle taxis) but was excited to get to the field after nearly three years away.
We met up with Business Mentor Jackline Okanya, who lives and works right outside of Kakamega in the Lurambi division. I not positive on the breakdown between city, village, district, etc. but I believe that is right. Jackline took us to three businesses near the middle of town and then to a Pump project business. I’ll only describe one of the businesses in town and the Pump Project business for the sake of time.
Pauline Salima is vibrant woman who I met standing behind her kiosk in the town market, composed of debarked tree poles and two shelves. The roof is composed of irregularly sized boards that do a sufficient job of keeping the sun at bay given their aesthetic imperfections. With a joyous smile and humbling laugh, she welcomed us to her business and away Sarah went with her interview. Her stand consisted of mangoes, onions, tomatoes, dried corn and a bag of rocks, which I’ll address later. It is mango season in Kenya, and the ones I’d tried previously were sweeter than any you’d find at Trader Joes or Whole Foods, having traveled probably less than a few hundred kilometers from tree to stand. Pauline works for the Wetinyie Group, originally selling maize but they diversify their inventory depending on the season. Wetinyie Group received their first VEF grant in the summer of 2009 and after successfully passing the progress report, received their second installment in December of the same year. Though a humble kiosk in the Lurambi market, Pauline boasted about her sales and the profits she’s accumulated over the years, allowing her to put money into both a group savings and a personal account. Although illiterate, she described how when she goes to the bank to make a deposit into her personal account, she relies on the security guards to help fill out he forms, a common practice but very intriguing to me. Although the group business makes a profit, she buys and sells chickens from home as an alternative source of income- a recommendation Jackline makes to all of her business groups. Due to the fluctuation in market prices for goods, often a second source of income helps level out the troughs many face throughout the year. So the rocks: The diet in most of these communities does not do wonders for the body’s iron levels. Women who are pregnant are particularly exposed to this iron deficiency, which is where the rocks come in. I know it sounds harsh, it is very common, people chew on the rocks, or put the powder into a beverage in order to maintain sufficient iron in their bodies. Pauline jokingly offered some to us, whereupon we kindly rescinded, but for me it rocked that subconscious list of things I take for granted back home. Below is a picture of her while she was laughing at me taking a photo- mzungos with their cameras.
Pauline Salima
After the great visit with Pauline and the other businesses near the market, we trucked our way on Pikis (remember, motorcycle taxis) to visit a business that is part of out Pump Project in Kenya. In 2008, I visited businesses in Tanzania that were part of a Pump Project there, so it was great to see the newer version of the project in Kenya. Here are the facts: Although VEF provides seed capital grants to groups of five entrepreneurs, it is apparent that one of the major deficiencies of rural economies is access to new technologies that either improve efficiency and/or completely alter the normal way of doing business. The Pump (Kickstart Moneymaker Pump) is great example of this. Normally rural farmers who are not lucky enough to have a government or NGO sponsored irrigation system nearby can only farm during the rainy season depending on crop. For obvious reasons this drastically reduces their ability to have a steady income year around, as the clouds dictate their access to water. Kickstart, a non-profit based in the Bay Area, developed several types of pumps that allow rural farmers to irrigate their land as long as they have a well or water source nearby (a well for example). Prior to the pump, this could be done by hauling water to and from the water source, which is incredibly labor intensive and often insufficient to water a large area.
We rode the pikis down the main road for a while then pulled off and headed into a winding maze of roads, paths and trails, constantly changing elevation and testing my comfortability on a two-wheeled vehicle. Luckily I’ve ridden on the back of my old roommate’s scooter up and down the hills of San Francisco, so I was used to anticipating bumps and changes in altitude. We turned and passed though some trees to a couple houses and a yard with a young calf resting in the shade. We introduced ourselves to some of the people there, then found that we were going to jump back on the pikis to head to the field. A few more winding roads and then down a hill where we stopped as we didn’t want to test the motorcycles on anymore of a decline. A baby, couldn’t have been older than 2, was playing in the shade and for a brief moment I thought one of the drivers didn’t see her, but luckily he stopped prior to entering her play area. We walked down the remainder of the steep hill, anticipating the slips and loose dirt, imagining the group carrying the pump down on a regular basis.
The field was filled with a beautiful array of green kale that stretched for about ¾ of an acre. Kale is a very profitable crop here and can be harvested slowly for up to 7 months, as it grows taller and taller and sprouts new leaves. The Yawenaao Group had planted the Kale in two waves, starting one seedbed on September 4th and another on December 9th. Although we were there for Sarah to conduct her surveys, I spoke with the business owners at length regarding how and when they planted, the prices they were getting by month and how much they’d made thus far. It was inspiring to see such a productive field and the owners were proud to share their records and discuss their future plans for the next season. I finally passed the baton to Sarah so she could do her survey and I walked around to take pictures. The kale’s deep green radiated in the full equatorial sun, contrasted by the vibrant red soil typical of East Africa. They had dug a small irrigation ditch next to the field, which allowed them to pump water over the whole field- part of the program’s requirement is a water source nearby, otherwise the pump wont be much help. Kale is an odd looking plant, it’s long stem extending from the earth marked where the leaves were previously snapped off to be sold. When Sarah had finished her interview, I took a picture of the business group along with Jackline and Erik, the Field Officer (part time employee), who helps monitor the business and makes sure they’re using the proper agricultural techniques.
Jackline Okayna, the Yawenaao group- and Erik, the field officer
We left the field and climbed back up the hill to the bikes, and bid farewell to the group. Following the same combination of winding paths and roads, we found the main drag and decided it was time to head back to Kakamega, as Jackline was cutting it very close to making it to work on time. We paid the pikis and then boarded a matatu that was headed back, making for a cozy ride. The matatu is like a miniature Volkswagen van and I had the honor of sitting in front. However, the holes in the metal floor exposed the road passing underneath and the cracked windshield did not do wonders for my safety concerns. The driver was very nice though and when a passenger forgot to pay he yelled out and the man came racing back apologetically. I was surprised by his good nature in the situation, but then he (the driver) explained to me that the child with the forgetful was very sick so the man had other, more pressing things on his mind. As a driver, he must be able to read into everyone’s situation as they board and perhaps that’s how he passes the day, constantly picking up passengers and dropping them off in what is like an endless stream of stop and go.
That night, all exhausted from the fieldwork, we sat outside in the cool evening air with the light fading all around us. Nick Handler, Lyndsay’s husband, joined us for dinner and we discussed the day and whatever else came to mind. Anne, Sarah and I were heading to Soroti on Saturday, which I was very excited for as I will be residing there for the next year. It did not take much to sleep that night and it was comforting to finally be on the right sleep schedule. I felt as though my body was alternating between San Francisco, London and Kakamega time zones, but finally I’d adjusted to sun’s rise and set.
Seven Seasons Guest House
Kampala, Uganda
By Philip Arscott
Considering how today marks the two week anniversary of my arrival in East Africa, figured it might be a good idea to finally put a post together. So, here it goes…
I arrived in Nairobi on March 1st, a brief 10 hour flight from London Heathrow. The flight was mainly a daze, partially due to my early wakening to catch the Heathrow Express, but more likely due to the late night I enjoyed visiting an old friend who resides in Islington. As people were preparing to debark, I noticed everyone was shedding layers of clothing in a uniform fashion that I’d never seen before. I quickly followed suit, but due to my genetics I had packed several extra layers in my carry on and had to resort to hanging a sweater from my bag’s strap. I was happy I did so, since I had to truck through the terminal to find an ATM to get some funds, convert the shillings to dollars, then purchase my visa. Although told to keep enough US dollars to take care of this, London has a tendency to empty your wallet.
The Visa process was simple and as I descended the stairs to the baggage claim, I could see both of my bags on the carousel. Perfect. Even better, as I walked towards the exit, I spotted Anne Olson, Director of Africa Operations, who was kindly waiting with a car and driver. This was obviously a great way to enter the Kenya atmosphere, with a friend, car and place nearby to stay. We traveled the dimly lit streets and turned onto an unpaved path that, even with Anne there, made me nervous. But my apprehension was ill advised, for we pulled into the Wildebeest Hotel after a short bumpy ride, and I knew I could rest soon. In true local fashion, the power had been out all evening so I signed in via flashlight. Wildebeest is a hotel, but its main attractions are the canvas safari-style tents that come stocked with a shower, bathroom and amazing ventilation. With my headlamp handy I put some things away, but exhaustion was the more formidable foe to settling and I quickly found myself laying down for rest. Luckily there was a generator on nearby, belching a screetching sound that had me fooled for a mutated cricket, making it easy to sleep (sarcasm). But the new environment and heat were the main factor for my weak sleep- I had anticipated this, but it’s amazing how many times you can look at your clock in a minute and think you’ve had hours of rest!
When the sun came up, I walked out of my tent to see Anne doing the same, so we headed to breakfast. Tea, two fried eggs and toast and I was ready for the day. I checked in with my parents to confirm I’d landed and settled safely- hearing their voice for the first time since leaving was a luxury for which I will always be indebted to mobile technology. The power came on around mid-morning, so Anne and I set to get to work and charge our devices. Having left the US office essentially a week earlier, (I sporadically went into the office the last week as I tried to organize my life into two bags) I was flooded with a barrage of emails and tasks to attend to. Although overwhelming, it helped keep my mind off of the heat and humidity. In the afternoon I began feeling hazy and went for a brief nap that ended up being 3 hours. Some of the best sleep I can remember and I not sure how I did it, as I was sweating and panting trying to stay cool. Either way, it was great to get some shut-eye and when I got up at 5, I decided to venture out to the shopping mall to track down some cheap sunglasses.
I by no means had a tour of Nairobi, but the small window I did view was intriguing. Matatus (mini-vans used for public transport) flying down the street often with arms, legs, baskets or something else hanging out of them, motorcycles, trucks spewing black smoke like miniature chimneys, men in suits and barefoot children, women in amazingly colorful garments, roadside stands selling fruits, vegetables, bags, hats, you name it, sidewalks crowded with the rush hour crowd, a man wearing a SF Giants cap who didn’t notice the one I was wearing and all the while feeling remarkably content. When I was in Tanzania three years earlier, I remember the paralyzing effect the new environment had on me. Not out of fear but due to the sheer newness of the place compared to everything I’d been used to. Perhaps I was still wakening from my nap and emotionally numb from sleep, but as the days have passed, I am happy to report that my brief stint in Tanzania really did help take the training wheels off.
Anyways, I entered the Yaya mall searching for shades and found that on each floor I went up, I could find cheaper pairs. I settled on some for a whopping 1,800 that, unbeknownst to me, were on sale for 500 shilling off, so I got them for a measly 1,300 shillings, roughly $16. Satisfied with the sale and discount, I headed back to the Wildebeest to get ready for the evening. Following a buffet dinner, we connected with Sarah Ellis, who works for the BOMA Fund and was going to be traveling with us for a while. It was a brief introduction, but great to add another person to the crew. We were headed to Kakamega in the morning, bright and early so I did not need much convincing to head to bed.
The 7:30 flight ended up being delayed for over an hour, quite the disappointment, as I know my body would have appreciated more rest. One great thing about the flight though, I was allowed to bring my huge 1 liter plastic water bottle on the plane. I always get thirsty above 5,000 feet, so this was a relief (ignoring the possibility of what you could do with that much liquid of a different nature). We briefly touched down in Eldoret- dropping off a few passengers and gaining some others, before completing the trek to Kakamega. Anne pointed out the Kakamega Forest, which was a beautiful swath of green in an otherwise brown and arid landscape. Everyone is waiting for the rains here, so I’m sure in a month or so it’d be a very different view from the air.
Upon landing, we made our way to the Sheywe Guest House in Kakamega, over poor roads and then a nicer tarmac. The roads are one of the more interesting things here- their importance is undeniable but their maintenance is near impossible. Too many trucks and not enough public investment, coupled with an intense rainy season and bouts of droughts, the dirt roads simply blow away until the rocks underneath act like a percussion massage therapist gone mad on your car and body. But we made it in one piece to be greeted by Lyndsay Holley Handler, the Sr. Director of Field Operations and Innovation, who was stoked to say the least to have us all there. We had a quick meal as we had not had time for breakfast, then Anne, Lyndsay and I sat down for the first ever Operations Meeitng from the East Africa with all members present! Although I am a Sr. Fellow, I’ll still be assisting with the implementation of the core program. We had plenty to discuss and I was thrilled to be part of the conversation.
Later I met Wilson Peru, Kenya Country Director, and Martin Theuri who is doing some consulting work for us, and we had a nice lunch in the Sheywe dining room. Afterwards, we trekked down the street to the VEF-Kenya Office, where I met Linnet Ayuma, Office manager and Charo Kalume, who’s been working on evaluations of our special projects. It is such a pleasure to finally meet our crew out there, as I’ve been emailing and having poorly connected phone conversations with some of them for three years now. We had a little meet and greet meeting and went over what everyone did so that we all knew where to turn to for different tasks. The rest of the day was composed of office work and getting comfy at Sheywe, dinner was nice -eating outside, with the thick scent of bug spray on my person and a lovely beef curry and chapatti. That is one thing I have craved since my exposure to them in Tanzania- Chapattis. They are very healthy and should be part of any dieter’s daily regime (sarcasm) but I love them all the same.
The following morning Martin, Sarah and I were headed to the field to visit some business groups to learn how and if they were saving. Sarah is putting together training modules for “Savings and Credit Groups,” what we at VEF call “Umbrella Groups (UG).” These groups have been formed in the past to help with many parts of our model, but going forward we’re planning on making it a standard in the program. Essentially, the Umbrella Groups are composed of businesses that are part of the same funding cycle usually revolving around the same industry although it is not a requirement. As each business is composed of five individuals and each umbrella is ten businesses, they make a very large unit that gives the individual businesses more options for success. UGs composed of the same type of businesses could purchase farm inputs in bulk for example, reducing the costs of operations and allowing them to achieve higher profits. More recently, UGs have begun to save money collectively, creating a source of credit in rural areas where otherwise there would be none. They form a constitution, laws and officers, to maintain organization and usually charge a fee if people miss meetings because it is vital that all members are in this together, and understand the system. As a group they can apply for a collective bank account, which of course requires a few governmental hoops to jump through. All in all, it is a very innovative way for these groups to create savings accounts as well as share information and to provide a single meeting place where we (VEF) can conduct future trainings if desired. As this is Sarah’s project, I was in for the ride (literally, on Pikis- motorcycle taxis) but was excited to get to the field after nearly three years away.
We met up with Business Mentor Jackline Okanya, who lives and works right outside of Kakamega in the Lurambi division. I not positive on the breakdown between city, village, district, etc. but I believe that is right. Jackline took us to three businesses near the middle of town and then to a Pump project business. I’ll only describe one of the businesses in town and the Pump Project business for the sake of time.
Pauline Salima is vibrant woman who I met standing behind her kiosk in the town market, composed of debarked tree poles and two shelves. The roof is composed of irregularly sized boards that do a sufficient job of keeping the sun at bay given their aesthetic imperfections. With a joyous smile and humbling laugh, she welcomed us to her business and away Sarah went with her interview. Her stand consisted of mangoes, onions, tomatoes, dried corn and a bag of rocks, which I’ll address later. It is mango season in Kenya, and the ones I’d tried previously were sweeter than any you’d find at Trader Joes or Whole Foods, having traveled probably less than a few hundred kilometers from tree to stand. Pauline works for the Wetinyie Group, originally selling maize but they diversify their inventory depending on the season. Wetinyie Group received their first VEF grant in the summer of 2009 and after successfully passing the progress report, received their second installment in December of the same year. Though a humble kiosk in the Lurambi market, Pauline boasted about her sales and the profits she’s accumulated over the years, allowing her to put money into both a group savings and a personal account. Although illiterate, she described how when she goes to the bank to make a deposit into her personal account, she relies on the security guards to help fill out he forms, a common practice but very intriguing to me. Although the group business makes a profit, she buys and sells chickens from home as an alternative source of income- a recommendation Jackline makes to all of her business groups. Due to the fluctuation in market prices for goods, often a second source of income helps level out the troughs many face throughout the year. So the rocks: The diet in most of these communities does not do wonders for the body’s iron levels. Women who are pregnant are particularly exposed to this iron deficiency, which is where the rocks come in. I know it sounds harsh, it is very common, people chew on the rocks, or put the powder into a beverage in order to maintain sufficient iron in their bodies. Pauline jokingly offered some to us, whereupon we kindly rescinded, but for me it rocked that subconscious list of things I take for granted back home. Below is a picture of her while she was laughing at me taking a photo- mzungos with their cameras.
Pauline Salima
After the great visit with Pauline and the other businesses near the market, we trucked our way on Pikis (remember, motorcycle taxis) to visit a business that is part of out Pump Project in Kenya. In 2008, I visited businesses in Tanzania that were part of a Pump Project there, so it was great to see the newer version of the project in Kenya. Here are the facts: Although VEF provides seed capital grants to groups of five entrepreneurs, it is apparent that one of the major deficiencies of rural economies is access to new technologies that either improve efficiency and/or completely alter the normal way of doing business. The Pump (Kickstart Moneymaker Pump) is great example of this. Normally rural farmers who are not lucky enough to have a government or NGO sponsored irrigation system nearby can only farm during the rainy season depending on crop. For obvious reasons this drastically reduces their ability to have a steady income year around, as the clouds dictate their access to water. Kickstart, a non-profit based in the Bay Area, developed several types of pumps that allow rural farmers to irrigate their land as long as they have a well or water source nearby (a well for example). Prior to the pump, this could be done by hauling water to and from the water source, which is incredibly labor intensive and often insufficient to water a large area.
We rode the pikis down the main road for a while then pulled off and headed into a winding maze of roads, paths and trails, constantly changing elevation and testing my comfortability on a two-wheeled vehicle. Luckily I’ve ridden on the back of my old roommate’s scooter up and down the hills of San Francisco, so I was used to anticipating bumps and changes in altitude. We turned and passed though some trees to a couple houses and a yard with a young calf resting in the shade. We introduced ourselves to some of the people there, then found that we were going to jump back on the pikis to head to the field. A few more winding roads and then down a hill where we stopped as we didn’t want to test the motorcycles on anymore of a decline. A baby, couldn’t have been older than 2, was playing in the shade and for a brief moment I thought one of the drivers didn’t see her, but luckily he stopped prior to entering her play area. We walked down the remainder of the steep hill, anticipating the slips and loose dirt, imagining the group carrying the pump down on a regular basis.
The field was filled with a beautiful array of green kale that stretched for about ¾ of an acre. Kale is a very profitable crop here and can be harvested slowly for up to 7 months, as it grows taller and taller and sprouts new leaves. The Yawenaao Group had planted the Kale in two waves, starting one seedbed on September 4th and another on December 9th. Although we were there for Sarah to conduct her surveys, I spoke with the business owners at length regarding how and when they planted, the prices they were getting by month and how much they’d made thus far. It was inspiring to see such a productive field and the owners were proud to share their records and discuss their future plans for the next season. I finally passed the baton to Sarah so she could do her survey and I walked around to take pictures. The kale’s deep green radiated in the full equatorial sun, contrasted by the vibrant red soil typical of East Africa. They had dug a small irrigation ditch next to the field, which allowed them to pump water over the whole field- part of the program’s requirement is a water source nearby, otherwise the pump wont be much help. Kale is an odd looking plant, it’s long stem extending from the earth marked where the leaves were previously snapped off to be sold. When Sarah had finished her interview, I took a picture of the business group along with Jackline and Erik, the Field Officer (part time employee), who helps monitor the business and makes sure they’re using the proper agricultural techniques.
Jackline Okayna, the Yawenaao group- and Erik, the field officer
We left the field and climbed back up the hill to the bikes, and bid farewell to the group. Following the same combination of winding paths and roads, we found the main drag and decided it was time to head back to Kakamega, as Jackline was cutting it very close to making it to work on time. We paid the pikis and then boarded a matatu that was headed back, making for a cozy ride. The matatu is like a miniature Volkswagen van and I had the honor of sitting in front. However, the holes in the metal floor exposed the road passing underneath and the cracked windshield did not do wonders for my safety concerns. The driver was very nice though and when a passenger forgot to pay he yelled out and the man came racing back apologetically. I was surprised by his good nature in the situation, but then he (the driver) explained to me that the child with the forgetful was very sick so the man had other, more pressing things on his mind. As a driver, he must be able to read into everyone’s situation as they board and perhaps that’s how he passes the day, constantly picking up passengers and dropping them off in what is like an endless stream of stop and go.
That night, all exhausted from the fieldwork, we sat outside in the cool evening air with the light fading all around us. Nick Handler, Lyndsay’s husband, joined us for dinner and we discussed the day and whatever else came to mind. Anne, Sarah and I were heading to Soroti on Saturday, which I was very excited for as I will be residing there for the next year. It did not take much to sleep that night and it was comforting to finally be on the right sleep schedule. I felt as though my body was alternating between San Francisco, London and Kakamega time zones, but finally I’d adjusted to sun’s rise and set.
Christine's Final Days in Kenya
By Christine Rose
As I write my last Kenyan blog entry, I write this with overwhelming gratitude for the gift of opportunity that Village Enterprise Fund has so generously given me. The opportunity to be involved in a project with meaning, purpose and significance – the Longitudinal Impact Assessment Study. The opportunity to connect with countless people living lives of simple dignity, and the message of hope that they have given me. The opportunity to travel throughout rural
I am encouraged that after focusing on the Lontigudinal Impact Assessment Study for a number of months, that the results are very positive. The majority of beneficiaries who have received microgrants in the past 2-5 years, are in fact still operational! The impact is reflected in their improved quality of life, increased self-confidence, and continued progress in gaining business skills that can be used moving forward. This is very exciting news!
I come away with a strong appreciation for the infrastructure behind these types of programs – the in-country staff who need to make decisions of significant impact on a daily basis, the business mentors who through their encouragement of the benefiaries are truly the “invisible hands touching the rural poor,” to the beneficiaries themselves – their courage, strength and faith in a better future for themselves and their children.
I am most grateful for all the support given me by the VEF team, with special thanks to the in-country Kenyan staff of VEF. Everyone has been warm, welcoming, concerned about my safety and well-being, and did all in their power to assist in the success of the Longevity Impact Assessment. I could not have even begun to navigate the countryside, culture, language and geography of
And now to close, my top 10 memories of
1. If you ever have the feeling something is crawling on you… it probably is!
2. Being called “mzungu” wherever I went.
3. Matatu culture – the drivers, the conductors, the potholes, the furtive money collection process, the close human contact…
4. Kenyans doing things the hard way – be it giving out vague directions, not providing relevant information, or do the same thing again and again even if the results are poor.
5. Vibrancy – every experience and moment is vivid, nothing is passive.
6. When saying hello (supa) to children in Namanga Region, adults always lay their hand on the child’s head.
7. Riding hundreds of kilometers on the back of a piki piki (motorbike) over rough and muddy rural roads.
8. Being welcomed as a complete stranger at the rural doorsteps of
9. Conversations with the beneficiaries regarding sales, expenses and profits. Struggling with consistent measurements (tins, sacks, packets, bags, etc), consistent time periods (days, weeks, seasons, market days), and ultimately working through their individual scenario’s. Discussing maize, tomatoes, eggs, fish, chickens, cereals, stems of bananas, pigs, goat meat, plastics, tailoring, bicycle repairing, carpentry…
10. And my top memories of Kenya overall are: The joy, adventure, frustrations, growth, fulfillment, exhaustion, dirt-mud-dirt, bucket baths, more dirt, matatu’s, power outages, pit latrines, lush maize fields, bugs, rain, bad roads, country cooking, piki piki’s, marketplaces, being called mzungu, Kenyan friends, the business owners, and the list goes on and on….
Thank you for this rich experience, and I wish the Village Enterprise Fund team continued passion, endurance, wisdom and significance of purpose!
Christine's Continued Field Work in Western Kenya
Written on May 17 from Western Kenya
By Christine Rose
As I wrap up visiting the last few regions included in the Village Enterprise Fund Longevity Study, I am enjoying experiencing the unique characteristics of each region, meeting many simple yet inspirational people, and breathing in the beautiful scenery of Western Kenya. I am traveling with my favorite team of four local evaluators (photo attached to left). 
I have spent the past few days on the back of a piki piki (motorcycle taxi) traveling deep into the rural areas of the Siaya and Bungoma Regions, to continue locating and meeting VEF Beneficiaries. I wish you could experience this, even just for a day - the adventure, hard work, and exhilaration are unmatched! Sometimes we have quite the convoy – today there were seven of us zipping through the countryside – a Kenyan translator, a local resident to help locate the businesses, the village chief (he was helping us to locate a particularly challenging business; I happen to think we were his greatest entertainment of the week), myself, and three piki piki drivers. I’m amazed that the rural business owners are so welcoming and easy-going, when a mzungu (foreigner) and a handful of locals arrive uninvited to their home to host an impromptu interview. Often they just scratch their heads and wonder how we even found them….once they get past the surprise, they are thrilled for the attention and interest in their business! (Below photo's show an interview in action, as well as the families of one of the beneficiaries we interviewed.)
I enjoyed a very unique and special experience in the midst of traveling throughout rural Kenya, focusing on small business owners who have received VEF services and training (including a microgrant) over the past 3-5 years. I happened to be in the Kakamega Region while a quarterly training and disbursement was taking place with new beneficiaries – these are groups of five individuals who had been selected to receive VEF services and training during this quarter. Generally 50 individuals participate in each training and disbursement session (ten groups of five). I had the fabulous opportunity to visit this training day in person, at which time the new members receive a certificate of training completion, as well as the disbursement of the funds.
As a passionate “groupie” of Muhammad Yunus (the “Father of MicroFinance,” referred to in previous blogs and emails), I am currently re-reading his book “Banker for the Poor,” and am enjoying the unique perspective of reading his personal microenterprise journey, while I am also living and experiencing all that he writes about. Be it visits to businesses in the field, interacting with the beneficiaries, or being touched by their stories. One of the experiences he writes with passion about, is the moment that these group members receive their official business certificate and funding – for rural poor who have never owned an official document, or touched the sum of money usually included in a MicroGrant or MicroLoan, it’s a pretty powerful moment!
It was a beautiful experience, to walk into a church auditorium where 50 new beneficiaries (mostly women), were sitting in a big circle around the room. There was no electricity in the room so it was difficult to see the expressions on the black faces in the dark, but I could see that every beneficiary was dressed in their simple, rural best. (Please see photo's to the right and below).
As is in classic form, the Business Mentor for the region asked me to stand up and say a few words (he translated for me). For better or worse, the visiting mzungu is often looked at as the expert, and asked to share a few words of knowledge/encouragement. I personally have mixed feelings about this as I do not like the automatic assignment of power/knowledge due to skin color or nationality… but that’s another story….What was beautiful in that moment, is that I felt that I DID have something of value to say! I shared that I am living and working in Kenya for three months, conducting an independent study to determine how successful their peers are, who have received the small “push” of a MicroGrant from VEF five years ago. I shared that I have discovered that this “push” is only a small part of the process – that the success truly lies within the individual business owners and their hard work. And that I am so impressed with what I have found! I expressed my desire to encourage them, and shared that most of those who received funding five years ago have strong and successful businesses now! I am convinced that these new beneficiaries will also be in the same position, as long as they make the most of this opportunity. I celebrated that today is a very special and important day in their life, as they begin to build their own businesses, which will empower them to take care of their families, send their kids to school, and create personal pride in their accomplishments. I could see gleaming smiles on all the women’s faces, as they burst into applause! It was a wonderful and touching moment for me…
Afterwards, each group of five beneficiaries came forward to receive their official business certificates. I suddenly became the official photographer, and it didn’t take long for the small groups to mug for the camera, clutching with pride their first official business document.
How exciting to witness the beginning of the microenterprise process for these individuals! And then to be able to visit with so many beneficiaries five years after that momentous occasion, and see first-hand the progress, challenges, victories and confidence that has developed over five years… May these new beneficiaries meet and exceed their dreams that this little “push” from VEF is granting them!
I have spent the past few days on the back of a piki piki (motorcycle taxi) traveling deep into the rural areas of the Siaya and Bungoma Regions, to continue locating and meeting VEF Beneficiaries. I wish you could experience this, even just for a day - the adventure, hard work, and exhilaration are unmatched! Sometimes we have quite the convoy – today there were seven of us zipping through the countryside – a Kenyan translator, a local resident to help locate the businesses, the village chief (he was helping us to locate a particularly challenging business; I happen to think we were his greatest entertainment of the week), myself, and three piki piki drivers. I’m amazed that the rural business owners are so welcoming and easy-going, when a mzungu (foreigner) and a handful of locals arrive uninvited to their home to host an impromptu interview. Often they just scratch their heads and wonder how we even found them….once they get past the surprise, they are thrilled for the attention and interest in their business! (Below photo's show an interview in action, as well as the families of one of the beneficiaries we interviewed.)
I enjoyed a very unique and special experience in the midst of traveling throughout rural Kenya, focusing on small business owners who have received VEF services and training (including a microgrant) over the past 3-5 years. I happened to be in the Kakamega Region while a quarterly training and disbursement was taking place with new beneficiaries – these are groups of five individuals who had been selected to receive VEF services and training during this quarter. Generally 50 individuals participate in each training and disbursement session (ten groups of five). I had the fabulous opportunity to visit this training day in person, at which time the new members receive a certificate of training completion, as well as the disbursement of the funds.
As a passionate “groupie” of Muhammad Yunus (the “Father of MicroFinance,” referred to in previous blogs and emails), I am currently re-reading his book “Banker for the Poor,” and am enjoying the unique perspective of reading his personal microenterprise journey, while I am also living and experiencing all that he writes about. Be it visits to businesses in the field, interacting with the beneficiaries, or being touched by their stories. One of the experiences he writes with passion about, is the moment that these group members receive their official business certificate and funding – for rural poor who have never owned an official document, or touched the sum of money usually included in a MicroGrant or MicroLoan, it’s a pretty powerful moment!
It was a beautiful experience, to walk into a church auditorium where 50 new beneficiaries (mostly women), were sitting in a big circle around the room. There was no electricity in the room so it was difficult to see the expressions on the black faces in the dark, but I could see that every beneficiary was dressed in their simple, rural best. (Please see photo's to the right and below).
As is in classic form, the Business Mentor for the region asked me to stand up and say a few words (he translated for me). For better or worse, the visiting mzungu is often looked at as the expert, and asked to share a few words of knowledge/encouragement. I personally have mixed feelings about this as I do not like the automatic assignment of power/knowledge due to skin color or nationality… but that’s another story….What was beautiful in that moment, is that I felt that I DID have something of value to say! I shared that I am living and working in Kenya for three months, conducting an independent study to determine how successful their peers are, who have received the small “push” of a MicroGrant from VEF five years ago. I shared that I have discovered that this “push” is only a small part of the process – that the success truly lies within the individual business owners and their hard work. And that I am so impressed with what I have found! I expressed my desire to encourage them, and shared that most of those who received funding five years ago have strong and successful businesses now! I am convinced that these new beneficiaries will also be in the same position, as long as they make the most of this opportunity. I celebrated that today is a very special and important day in their life, as they begin to build their own businesses, which will empower them to take care of their families, send their kids to school, and create personal pride in their accomplishments. I could see gleaming smiles on all the women’s faces, as they burst into applause! It was a wonderful and touching moment for me…
Afterwards, each group of five beneficiaries came forward to receive their official business certificates. I suddenly became the official photographer, and it didn’t take long for the small groups to mug for the camera, clutching with pride their first official business document.
How exciting to witness the beginning of the microenterprise process for these individuals! And then to be able to visit with so many beneficiaries five years after that momentous occasion, and see first-hand the progress, challenges, victories and confidence that has developed over five years… May these new beneficiaries meet and exceed their dreams that this little “push” from VEF is granting them!
Christine's Experiences in Namanga Region
Written on April 30, 2010 from Namanga, Kenya
By Christine Rose
I spent this past week in the Namanga Region of Kenya, completing Phase 3 of the six regions that will be included in the VEF Longevity Study.
Namanga is vastly different from what I have experienced in Western Kenya thus far. Being on the Kenya / Tanzania border, Namanga is a predominantly Masai population. The Masai are semi-nomadic people, and for the most part rely on livestock for their livelihood; cattle and goat grazing, herding, milking and slaughtering. The past 2 years have seen tremendous drought in this region, hence economic devastation which they are just beginning to recover from.
The towns of Namanga and Mailtisa (where I focused most of my time), are quite primitive. Dusty, dry, a few small kiosks selling vegetables or maize flour, with no modern amenities. The sparse existence of the people is evident everywhere you turn.
I spent much of my time interviewing business owners who had assembled for Market Day on the dusty roadside of the village
of Mailtisa. It was fascinating to see the robed men leaning on staffs, talking as they tended their goats, women buying and selling with toothless smiles and jewelry flashing, babies tied to their backs. Thankfully I had a Masai interpreter with me, so I wasn’t quite so singled out as the foreigner. I was able to meet with many business owners, and was surprised, yet again, that in such a hostile climate with so many factors against 
them (drought being a big one), that individuals are still finding ways to provide for their families through small businesses. 
One disconcerting realization is that most adults have no education (although their children are for the most part attending school, which is positive). I am impressed by herdsmen who manage their entire goat herds by memorizing distinguishing marks on each individual goat (rather than other methods of accounting for them). It was challenging to see women who are working
so hard to run small vegetable stands and kiosks, having no working knowledge of units of measure and pricing. As I began to calculate what they were paying to purchase their goods, and what their selling price is, it became clear that often they are selling at a loss, and not even aware. I am encouraged that the primary request for training is for business accounting, but am concerned that this will be a long, slow path. I hope the next generation can begin bringing about change. 
Speaking of change, you’ll see evidence of the old and new worlds integrating in some of the attached photo’s, as in the example of the traditional Masai couple who are goat-herders, with their 20-something son who is also in the goat business, but sporting jeans and sunglasses.
Namanga is vastly different from what I have experienced in Western Kenya thus far. Being on the Kenya / Tanzania border, Namanga is a predominantly Masai population. The Masai are semi-nomadic people, and for the most part rely on livestock for their livelihood; cattle and goat grazing, herding, milking and slaughtering. The past 2 years have seen tremendous drought in this region, hence economic devastation which they are just beginning to recover from.
The towns of Namanga and Mailtisa (where I focused most of my time), are quite primitive. Dusty, dry, a few small kiosks selling vegetables or maize flour, with no modern amenities. The sparse existence of the people is evident everywhere you turn.
I spent much of my time interviewing business owners who had assembled for Market Day on the dusty roadside of the village
of Mailtisa. It was fascinating to see the robed men leaning on staffs, talking as they tended their goats, women buying and selling with toothless smiles and jewelry flashing, babies tied to their backs. Thankfully I had a Masai interpreter with me, so I wasn’t quite so singled out as the foreigner. I was able to meet with many business owners, and was surprised, yet again, that in such a hostile climate with so many factors against 
them (drought being a big one), that individuals are still finding ways to provide for their families through small businesses. 
One disconcerting realization is that most adults have no education (although their children are for the most part attending school, which is positive). I am impressed by herdsmen who manage their entire goat herds by memorizing distinguishing marks on each individual goat (rather than other methods of accounting for them). It was challenging to see women who are working
so hard to run small vegetable stands and kiosks, having no working knowledge of units of measure and pricing. As I began to calculate what they were paying to purchase their goods, and what their selling price is, it became clear that often they are selling at a loss, and not even aware. I am encouraged that the primary request for training is for business accounting, but am concerned that this will be a long, slow path. I hope the next generation can begin bringing about change. 
Speaking of change, you’ll see evidence of the old and new worlds integrating in some of the attached photo’s, as in the example of the traditional Masai couple who are goat-herders, with their 20-something son who is also in the goat business, but sporting jeans and sunglasses.
The Masai and the Mzungu’s (foreigners) don’t have a particularly friendly existence. The Masai have been conditioned by tourists heading on Safari to Tanzania, that mzungu’s have money. Hence, mzungu’s are either badgered with jewelry sales or are the object of begging for money. Conversely, many mzungu’s view the Masai as objects of curiosity rather than a proud people. I am thankful that the Longevity Study provided me an opportunity to meet the Masai on a level of mutual respect, but I did not have high hopes for any lasting personal connections.
Hence, my interaction with Shabishina Lesiolo of Entere Milk was a beautiful and unexpected blessing! These women (known as “mama’s” – any older woman is called a “mama”) run a quite successful dairy business. The “head mama” of the group (Sabishina Lesiolo) and I seemed to “get” each other well, despite depending upon a translator. If I could paraphrase Masai, I think she was saying “I like that Mama, she understands us; we are sisters” – OK, so the one part of this story that I don’t like is I seem to have graduated to an age where I am called a “Mama,” but all the rest is good! She looked past me being a mzungu, and saw my heart; that we were both women, mama’s. So, Mama Lesiolo invited us for tea, and while we were drinking tea under a shade tree, she then came outside bearing the gift of a few strands of beads. In a situation where I am jaded with Masai women badgering me at every turn to buy their beads, it was refreshing to see that Mama Lesiolo was offering these beads purely as a gift. But what caught me completely off-guard, is that Mama Lesiolo had donned her best ceremonial beaded necklaces (reserved for special occasions), and while wearing them, danced a traditional Masai dance for me before she placed the gift of beads around my neck. It was a priceless moment – to realize that I wasn’t in a Masai Museum, or tourist village –but that this traditional Masai dance was presented as a gift to me and those who had supported this small business through a VEF grant! With the backdrop of her traditional hut, a few cows, the big snake we had just thrown rocks at to scare away, and the harshly beautiful landscape of southern Kenya, it was on
e of those moments that I will never forget, what a gift… Please se
e the attached photo’s of myself with Mama Lesiolo and one of her business partners, and the next photo of Mama Lesiolo after she has donned a ceremonial kanga and her best bead necklaces. For a woman who has no address, no phone number, and is illiterate, Mama Lesiolo has an unquenchable spirit and “get-it” factor that crosses all language, cultural, and ethnic barriers. You go, Mama!
On a sad side-note, I learned the next day that Mama Lesiolo’s husband is in her home dying of HIV AIDS, and that Mama Lesiolo has also been infected. I was thankful to hear that, due to the success of Entere Milk, she is able to afford needed medication and is currently in good health.
As I rode back to Namanga, jammed with 8 other people and a bleating goat in a small 5-seater junker of a car (that is the official matatu transportation in Namanga Region), I felt so content and blessed that not only are the VEF Grant funds impacting women like Mama Lesiolo, but that I was privilged enough to witness and share in their story.
Now if only I could get a hot shower one of these days, I would be extremely happy!
Hence, my interaction with Shabishina Lesiolo of Entere Milk was a beautiful and unexpected blessing! These women (known as “mama’s” – any older woman is called a “mama”) run a quite successful dairy business. The “head mama” of the group (Sabishina Lesiolo) and I seemed to “get” each other well, despite depending upon a translator. If I could paraphrase Masai, I think she was saying “I like that Mama, she understands us; we are sisters” – OK, so the one part of this story that I don’t like is I seem to have graduated to an age where I am called a “Mama,” but all the rest is good! She looked past me being a mzungu, and saw my heart; that we were both women, mama’s. So, Mama Lesiolo invited us for tea, and while we were drinking tea under a shade tree, she then came outside bearing the gift of a few strands of beads. In a situation where I am jaded with Masai women badgering me at every turn to buy their beads, it was refreshing to see that Mama Lesiolo was offering these beads purely as a gift. But what caught me completely off-guard, is that Mama Lesiolo had donned her best ceremonial beaded necklaces (reserved for special occasions), and while wearing them, danced a traditional Masai dance for me before she placed the gift of beads around my neck. It was a priceless moment – to realize that I wasn’t in a Masai Museum, or tourist village –but that this traditional Masai dance was presented as a gift to me and those who had supported this small business through a VEF grant! With the backdrop of her traditional hut, a few cows, the big snake we had just thrown rocks at to scare away, and the harshly beautiful landscape of southern Kenya, it was on
e of those moments that I will never forget, what a gift… Please se
e the attached photo’s of myself with Mama Lesiolo and one of her business partners, and the next photo of Mama Lesiolo after she has donned a ceremonial kanga and her best bead necklaces. For a woman who has no address, no phone number, and is illiterate, Mama Lesiolo has an unquenchable spirit and “get-it” factor that crosses all language, cultural, and ethnic barriers. You go, Mama!On a sad side-note, I learned the next day that Mama Lesiolo’s husband is in her home dying of HIV AIDS, and that Mama Lesiolo has also been infected. I was thankful to hear that, due to the success of Entere Milk, she is able to afford needed medication and is currently in good health.
As I rode back to Namanga, jammed with 8 other people and a bleating goat in a small 5-seater junker of a car (that is the official matatu transportation in Namanga Region), I felt so content and blessed that not only are the VEF Grant funds impacting women like Mama Lesiolo, but that I was privilged enough to witness and share in their story.
Now if only I could get a hot shower one of these days, I would be extremely happy!
From the Countryside to Nairobi
Written on April 13, from Nairobi, Kenya
By Christine Rose
Whereas most of Village Enterprise Fund’s clients are based in the rural areas, there is a small focus on businesses in the urban areas – particularly the Nairobi region, including businesses in the Nairobi Slums.
The slums of Nairobi are well-known as being some of the most expansive slums in any urban area. For example, I understand that the Kiberi Slum in Nairobi is home to over a million people in a very small footprint. Inhabitants face daily challenges of tight living conditions, poor housing material (primarily corrugated metal in a hot climate), no running water, and no sanitation or garbage services (small culverts running down each street collect human waste, and garbage is dumped on the sides of the street and in the river). Despite the deplorable conditions, I saw in Kiberi what I have seen everywhere else – mothers working, children playing, busy markets, and people being in community together. The human spirit certainly is resilient!
We quickly moved on to Korogocho, which I understand to be the most dangerous slum in Nairobi – primarily because most of the young men are unemployed, use drugs and alcohol, and loiter in the streets. I believe that it’s very rare for foreigners to visit Korogocho (other than NGO’s or aid workers), so a white girl walking down the streets of Korogocho is not something that is easily ignored – and a great target for theft. I knew that going into it – but heck, we had businesses to visit, and I was with my Kenyan guide; I was prepared to part with my camera and the few shillings in my pocket if anyone approached me… Well, the experience turned out quite differently – why am I not surprised by now!
As we began walking through the East side of Korogocho (the most dangerous area), we were quickly met by one of the small business owners that VEF has provided with a MicroGrant. We chatted briefly, I enjoyed hearing about their business, and we moved on. I didn’t take much notice to the fact that the business owner was walking with us – I figured they were enjoying the conversation. As we approached the next business, the same thing happened – after the interview, the business owner joined our group – and it happened again, until I realized that I was being escorted by a group of six individuals who lived in Korogocho. They were sending a message of “don’t mess with her – she’s with us” – and sure enough, the mood eased. Even the young men where shouting hello to me, rather than being threatening. God had provided protection in the form of the very business owners that Village Enterprise Fund is supporting – and it worked beautifully!
There are so many fascinating stories, even in Korogocho Slum…. The man who was born and raised on the streets of Korogocho, who as a young man drank and looted, and now he has changed his ways and has opened a youth center, hoping to occupy the young men of Korogocho with better activities. Oh, and he offers toilet and shower facilities (which don’t exist in Korogocho), and is currently working on grand scheme to convert the waste into cooking gas…!
Maggie and Joyce are two strong, proud women who have created their own success even within their circumstances in Korogochu (benefiting from the hand-up from VEF). Ma
ggie makes jewelry and goes to hotels and conferences to sell her wares (Maggie shared how she loves interacting with the businessmen and women). Joyce sells French fries on a street corner – and oh are they yummy! Joyce has such a warm nature, she is clearly the “Korogocho Mama.”
The slums of Nairobi are well-known as being some of the most expansive slums in any urban area. For example, I understand that the Kiberi Slum in Nairobi is home to over a million people in a very small footprint. Inhabitants face daily challenges of tight living conditions, poor housing material (primarily corrugated metal in a hot climate), no running water, and no sanitation or garbage services (small culverts running down each street collect human waste, and garbage is dumped on the sides of the street and in the river). Despite the deplorable conditions, I saw in Kiberi what I have seen everywhere else – mothers working, children playing, busy markets, and people being in community together. The human spirit certainly is resilient!
We quickly moved on to Korogocho, which I understand to be the most dangerous slum in Nairobi – primarily because most of the young men are unemployed, use drugs and alcohol, and loiter in the streets. I believe that it’s very rare for foreigners to visit Korogocho (other than NGO’s or aid workers), so a white girl walking down the streets of Korogocho is not something that is easily ignored – and a great target for theft. I knew that going into it – but heck, we had businesses to visit, and I was with my Kenyan guide; I was prepared to part with my camera and the few shillings in my pocket if anyone approached me… Well, the experience turned out quite differently – why am I not surprised by now!
As we began walking through the East side of Korogocho (the most dangerous area), we were quickly met by one of the small business owners that VEF has provided with a MicroGrant. We chatted briefly, I enjoyed hearing about their business, and we moved on. I didn’t take much notice to the fact that the business owner was walking with us – I figured they were enjoying the conversation. As we approached the next business, the same thing happened – after the interview, the business owner joined our group – and it happened again, until I realized that I was being escorted by a group of six individuals who lived in Korogocho. They were sending a message of “don’t mess with her – she’s with us” – and sure enough, the mood eased. Even the young men where shouting hello to me, rather than being threatening. God had provided protection in the form of the very business owners that Village Enterprise Fund is supporting – and it worked beautifully!
There are so many fascinating stories, even in Korogocho Slum…. The man who was born and raised on the streets of Korogocho, who as a young man drank and looted, and now he has changed his ways and has opened a youth center, hoping to occupy the young men of Korogocho with better activities. Oh, and he offers toilet and shower facilities (which don’t exist in Korogocho), and is currently working on grand scheme to convert the waste into cooking gas…!
Maggie and Joyce are two strong, proud women who have created their own success even within their circumstances in Korogochu (benefiting from the hand-up from VEF). Ma
ggie makes jewelry and goes to hotels and conferences to sell her wares (Maggie shared how she loves interacting with the businessmen and women). Joyce sells French fries on a street corner – and oh are they yummy! Joyce has such a warm nature, she is clearly the “Korogocho Mama.”Clearly there is extreme hardship for those living in Korogocho and Kiberi, but it is refreshing to see that even in the most challenging of situations, men and women can see improvements, given the smallest opportunity.
I enjoyed getting back out to the countryside surrounding Nairobi, away from the hustle and bustle of the city for a bit. Our final visit of the day was with Anna – previously she sold used clothing in a small kiosk at the market; with the help of the MicroGrant, she now she has her own storefront where she runs a tailoring business. Wish I had time to get some clothes made! (Photo to left)
As I close this blog entry, I am very much looking forward to Kevin’s visit to Kenya! He arrives in Nairobi on Thursday, and I will have the joy of sharing “my Kenya” with him for a week. I will pick up my Longevity Study work and continue this blog towards the end of April...
Best,
Christine
Kakamega Region - First Week of Longevity Study
Written on April 5, Kakemega Region, Kenya
By Christine Rose
Three of the four Evaluators, from left to right in the photo above, are Duncan, Philip and Mike – see if you can pick me out of the crowd! The team has proven to be all and more than I could hope for – they are very hard-working (we generally spent 12-hour days in the Field which is closer to Silicon Valley working hours than Kenyan), are smart and intuitive, and have been as eager as I to secure valid results for this study. We have all been personally impacted by the people we have met, and the stories we have heard along the way… more to follow later in this blog.
Our goal was to locate and meet with 60 business entrepreneurs in the Kakamega Region in one week; this averaged to each Evaluator visiting 3 businesses per day (I accompany one Evaluator each day). So, you say to yourself, what so hard about that?? Let me attempt to provide a little context… Let’s say you were dropped in the middle of the Bay Area, never having been there before. You are given the names of 60 start-up businesses that were launched between 2004 and 2008. You are armed with the names of the businesses – but you soon discover that either no one actually uses their formal business name (trust me, there are no sign placards on tiny roadside kiosks), or their business type has changed over the years. No worries, you have more information; you have the names of the five original group members – but wait, the names on the documentation are their official names, but no one goes by those names, and community members don’t recognize individuals by those names. And, just in case you are feeling a little lacking in information, you are given a map – but it’s a map of the US which hardly shows the location of San Francisco, let alone Bay Area detail; no maps to the detail you need exist – nor do most of the streets have names. You are only allowed to use public transportation, and you have a total of 3 hours on average to locate a business, find one of the business owners, and conduct a formal interview. I personally think that “The Amazing Race” is out, and I’ll launch a new reality series called “Sleuth” upon my return, with the above as the criteria, set in various exotic worldwide locations – do you think it’ll take off?
OK, now that I’ve painted a pretty dismal picture, can I just say what a rush we get each time we locate a business, given these tough search parameters? And I am very proud to say, that the team has been able to locate almost every business! Granted, some groups have either changed business focus, or have gone out of business over the past 6 years (consider how many in Silicon Valley have gone through this process) – our goal is purely to track down a tie to each business, and after meeting with people originally involved when the VEF Grant was received, to determine (by a number of criteria), if that business is still operational or not (or, to put it more succinctly, if the initial VEF Grant is still benefiting those individuals). Watching the Kenyan “communication network” in action is intriguing –and actually quite effective! Most everyone in rural Kenya is very willing to help out - so imagine women who are planting maize, shouting across fields to their neighbors, asking if any names we are looking for are familiar. Or perhaps the old man on the bicycle who remembers that just a 5 minute piki piki (motorbike) ride away, he recalls seeing a carpentry business that might be the one we are looking for… Or the boda boda (bicycle taxi) guy who suggests we go to the nearby tailor shop to get information about the butcher shop we are seeking… Just locating the businesses has been a wonderful experience and full of fabulous stories! And I know full well that none of this could have been possible, without the help of the local Kenyan team.
And then the businesses owners and their stories…. Of course there are many stories of heart-breaking challenges; family deaths and funeral costs, poor harvests due to weather issues, businesses impacted by the 2007 post-election violence, and the lists goes on. But 3:1, the success stories outweigh the failures; and considering the harsh conditions, I am more than impressed! I could bore you with details of story after story, but I will share only a few highlights… I feel truly blessed that rather than hearing a bunch of statistics, I am getting to personally meet the people and faces behind the statistics – real people with real lives, real hardships, and real dreams.
The first story is of a woman named Flora. She runs a small tailoring business (photo to right). Prior to receiving the VEF Grant, her family had to borrow every basic need from her neighbors, right down to salt. Now that she owns a sewing machine, she is able to be independent, take care of her families’ needs, and can even afford to send her children to school! Flora flashed a gorgeous smile as she shared their small – yet significant – successes.
The second story is of a man named Richard, a Mandazi Distributor (mandazi are fried doughnuts). His business group makes fresh mandazi every morning, and he distributes them to the local community from the back of his bicycle. When I think of the small income he makes, yet the fact that it is enough to give him the push out of absolute poverty so he can now pay rent, feed his family, and buy shoes for his kids, its pretty impressive. I love the sparkle in his eye and look of personal pride, as he shares that he truly is providing for his young family!
The final story is of Margaret – her husband is currently in jail due to a family dispute, and she is responsible for raising their four children on her own. Her small vegetable businesses (started with funds from a VEF Grant) has improved enough that she has been able to buy a cow. Her
children have milk to drink, and by selling milk she raised enough money to purchase a goat. Through hard work and perseverance, she is able to provide for her kids and each one is in school. Margaret exhibited such confidence and grace – and pride – as she shared this story with myself and Philip (the Evaluator). I have the utmost respect and admiration for Margaret! I truly don’t think I could be accomplishing what she is, if I were in her same situation… (Picture with Margaret and her kids to the right.)
I am inspired by the individuals I have met thus far, and am encouraged that the work VEF (and many other NGO’s) is doing, is truly making a difference in individuals’ lives.
On a closing note, I cannot imagine a better way to explore a country of vibrant people and beautiful landscapes, than through a study like this! It truly is “Adventure with a Purpose” – the exhileration of speeding through picturesque countrysides on the back of a motorbike, hunting down that elusive business, is an adventure I most highly recommend! I feel that I am getting to know intimately the unique and wonderful country of Kenya – and am loving every moment of it!
By Christine Rose
This past week, four Kenyan Evaluators and I spent a full week in the Field conducting the Village Enterprise Fund Longevity Study in the Kakemega Region of Kenya (the first of six regions to be included in the Study). As a refresher, the purpose of this Longevity Study is to evaluate how many small businesses that received VEF Grants ($150 Grants to the poorest of the working poor) from the timeframe of 2004 to 2008, are still operational. This is to to affirm the health of the program for those providing grants, and also for VEF to get visibility into the long-term success of the grants and where improvements could be made moving forward.
Three of the four Evaluators, from left to right in the photo above, are Duncan, Philip and Mike – see if you can pick me out of the crowd! The team has proven to be all and more than I could hope for – they are very hard-working (we generally spent 12-hour days in the Field which is closer to Silicon Valley working hours than Kenyan), are smart and intuitive, and have been as eager as I to secure valid results for this study. We have all been personally impacted by the people we have met, and the stories we have heard along the way… more to follow later in this blog.
Our goal was to locate and meet with 60 business entrepreneurs in the Kakamega Region in one week; this averaged to each Evaluator visiting 3 businesses per day (I accompany one Evaluator each day). So, you say to yourself, what so hard about that?? Let me attempt to provide a little context… Let’s say you were dropped in the middle of the Bay Area, never having been there before. You are given the names of 60 start-up businesses that were launched between 2004 and 2008. You are armed with the names of the businesses – but you soon discover that either no one actually uses their formal business name (trust me, there are no sign placards on tiny roadside kiosks), or their business type has changed over the years. No worries, you have more information; you have the names of the five original group members – but wait, the names on the documentation are their official names, but no one goes by those names, and community members don’t recognize individuals by those names. And, just in case you are feeling a little lacking in information, you are given a map – but it’s a map of the US which hardly shows the location of San Francisco, let alone Bay Area detail; no maps to the detail you need exist – nor do most of the streets have names. You are only allowed to use public transportation, and you have a total of 3 hours on average to locate a business, find one of the business owners, and conduct a formal interview. I personally think that “The Amazing Race” is out, and I’ll launch a new reality series called “Sleuth” upon my return, with the above as the criteria, set in various exotic worldwide locations – do you think it’ll take off?
OK, now that I’ve painted a pretty dismal picture, can I just say what a rush we get each time we locate a business, given these tough search parameters? And I am very proud to say, that the team has been able to locate almost every business! Granted, some groups have either changed business focus, or have gone out of business over the past 6 years (consider how many in Silicon Valley have gone through this process) – our goal is purely to track down a tie to each business, and after meeting with people originally involved when the VEF Grant was received, to determine (by a number of criteria), if that business is still operational or not (or, to put it more succinctly, if the initial VEF Grant is still benefiting those individuals). Watching the Kenyan “communication network” in action is intriguing –and actually quite effective! Most everyone in rural Kenya is very willing to help out - so imagine women who are planting maize, shouting across fields to their neighbors, asking if any names we are looking for are familiar. Or perhaps the old man on the bicycle who remembers that just a 5 minute piki piki (motorbike) ride away, he recalls seeing a carpentry business that might be the one we are looking for… Or the boda boda (bicycle taxi) guy who suggests we go to the nearby tailor shop to get information about the butcher shop we are seeking… Just locating the businesses has been a wonderful experience and full of fabulous stories! And I know full well that none of this could have been possible, without the help of the local Kenyan team.
And then the businesses owners and their stories…. Of course there are many stories of heart-breaking challenges; family deaths and funeral costs, poor harvests due to weather issues, businesses impacted by the 2007 post-election violence, and the lists goes on. But 3:1, the success stories outweigh the failures; and considering the harsh conditions, I am more than impressed! I could bore you with details of story after story, but I will share only a few highlights… I feel truly blessed that rather than hearing a bunch of statistics, I am getting to personally meet the people and faces behind the statistics – real people with real lives, real hardships, and real dreams.
The first story is of a woman named Flora. She runs a small tailoring business (photo to right). Prior to receiving the VEF Grant, her family had to borrow every basic need from her neighbors, right down to salt. Now that she owns a sewing machine, she is able to be independent, take care of her families’ needs, and can even afford to send her children to school! Flora flashed a gorgeous smile as she shared their small – yet significant – successes.
The second story is of a man named Richard, a Mandazi Distributor (mandazi are fried doughnuts). His business group makes fresh mandazi every morning, and he distributes them to the local community from the back of his bicycle. When I think of the small income he makes, yet the fact that it is enough to give him the push out of absolute poverty so he can now pay rent, feed his family, and buy shoes for his kids, its pretty impressive. I love the sparkle in his eye and look of personal pride, as he shares that he truly is providing for his young family!
The final story is of Margaret – her husband is currently in jail due to a family dispute, and she is responsible for raising their four children on her own. Her small vegetable businesses (started with funds from a VEF Grant) has improved enough that she has been able to buy a cow. Her
children have milk to drink, and by selling milk she raised enough money to purchase a goat. Through hard work and perseverance, she is able to provide for her kids and each one is in school. Margaret exhibited such confidence and grace – and pride – as she shared this story with myself and Philip (the Evaluator). I have the utmost respect and admiration for Margaret! I truly don’t think I could be accomplishing what she is, if I were in her same situation… (Picture with Margaret and her kids to the right.)I am inspired by the individuals I have met thus far, and am encouraged that the work VEF (and many other NGO’s) is doing, is truly making a difference in individuals’ lives.
On a closing note, I cannot imagine a better way to explore a country of vibrant people and beautiful landscapes, than through a study like this! It truly is “Adventure with a Purpose” – the exhileration of speeding through picturesque countrysides on the back of a motorbike, hunting down that elusive business, is an adventure I most highly recommend! I feel that I am getting to know intimately the unique and wonderful country of Kenya – and am loving every moment of it!
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