Gorillas!

Written on Wednesday, April 14-16, 2008 from Jinja, Uganda

By Anne Olson

Another travel day – about 10 hours with 2 hours on REALLY bad roads. Our driver was very tired when we got there just before dark. Sharae and I were the only ones in the camp so we got great service. We had a great little tent cabin with bathroom and shower (hot water brought to fill up the "bucket" when we were ready to shower). They served very delicious (western) food and brought tea to our porch in the morning with our wakeup call. But the VERY best was the hot water bottle we found at the bottom of our cots when we got back from dinner! It was quite chilly there (especially for Uganda) so the hot water bottle was much appreciated.

Tuesday, American tax day, was our gorilla trekking day. We were in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in western Uganda where half of the mountain gorilla population in the world live. There are 4 or 5 habituated gorilla families; habituated means they are used to having people come to see them as long as there is a guide in his uniform to bring us. Maximum group size is 8 and maximum time with the family is one hour. Early in the morning the trackers go out to find the gorillas who may be close to the park headquarters or far away. You then hike to wherever the trackers have found the gorilla family you are going to see. We went to see the Rusbegura family ("R" group) which has 15 members.

We met at the park headquarters and after orientation started off to find the gorillas. We hiked about 15 minutes and there they were. Further instructions were given and the cameras started snapping. At first they were high up in the trees eating. You could hear them making "ummm" sounds that indicated they were enjoying their food. The silverback, the lead male of the family, weighs about 500-600 lbs and he was the highest in the tree. It was amazing how the small branches would hold him; the guide said that he could also just grab the same size branch and snap it off if he wanted to.

An "old mama" came down first and sat down to look at us and eat some leaves from a branch that she had. She was maybe 10-15 feet away. She looked like a fat Buddha sitting there with such a peaceful look on her face. She is about 35 years old with a life expectancy of about 50 years. She was pretty funny – once she posed with her hand on her hip like a bathing beauty, then she got tired so just laid down on her back and crossed her arms like she was hugging herself. Sometimes she had her eyes closed and sometimes they were open but she was definitely relaxed. And not one bit afraid of us nor trying to frighten us.

The silverback came down next and that started the descent of the others. He was so big and his hands are HUGE! He "posed" for us for a while in all his majesty and then went over to lay down and sleep. As the younger gorillas came down, they would go over to sleep with him. At one time there were 5 youngsters and an adolescent gathered around him.

When the adults came down, they used the tree trunks. When the youngsters came down, they used the vines that were hanging from the lower branches – sometimes just sliding down like it was a fireman's pole. One of them was hanging on the vines and practicing his chest thumping with one hand.

A mother and her 16 month old baby came down and he was riding on her back. He sat up as mom was walking away and did a two-handed chest thumping practice. That had us all laughing. Small babies ride on the mother's chest, much like monkeys.

All at once the silverback decided that his nap was over and it was time to move on so he got up and started off. Most of the others followed him right away. After he crossed the path into the jungle, he stood up, made a loud noise, and beat his chest – a show of domination (I was convinced!). He continued on a bit further and then sat down to rest again. One of the youngsters and the adolescent male were close behind him; when they stopped the young one put his arm around the other one. Brotherly love??? When we were getting ready to leave at the end of our time, the young one walked over to a member of our group and touched his leg and his hand. He had his back turned and didn't know the gorilla was approaching him until it touched him! Then the young one walked in front of us – about 3 feet away. What amazing creatures they are! I like them as much as I like elephants!

The gorillas stayed in and by the tree we found them in for most of the time we had to view them. They were not afraid of us at all and were not threatening to us. Our guide was very good, telling us stories about some of their personalities and laughing at their antics. He truly loves those gorillas, is passionate about his work with them, and likes spending time with them.

The gorillas know the guides by their green uniform shirts. Our guide, Obed, once went to the forest in a tshirt without his green shirt and one of the gorilla charged him. Just a reminder that they are wild animals and not pets.

I found a book on Amazon.com called The Impenetrable Forest by Thor Hansen. Thor was a Peace Corp volunteer in the mid-1990s who was sent to Uganda to habituate the first group of gorillas for visitors. (One was already habituated for research.) The book is about the people and the gorillas during his stay in Bwindi. Fascinating! So while we were there (after trekking which ended about 11am due to our short hike), we started looking for some of the people in the book. We found 4 of them. One saw Sharae holding the book as we were turning the car around and said "I'm in that book!" So that was the start of our autograph hunting. Two of them still work for the park (our guide is the younger brother of one of them) and there are many who are retired and still in the area. It was so fun to talk with them and hear additional stories that were not in the book. One of them told us the story about walking sticks. Because the terrain is very steep, most trekkers, guides and trackers use walking sticks. So one day they found the gorillas in a meadow with some reeds growing there and the next thing they knew, the gorillas had broken off the reeds and were using them for walking sticks. Can you imagine that scene? He said they were all laughing so hard that day.

In the afternoon, we went to the Gorilla Clinic. It is a lab where the health of the gorillas is monitored with fecal samples that the guides and trackers bring in. The lab technician is working for an organization call Conservation Through Public Health (http://www.ctph.org/ ). This organization monitors the health of the local people and livestock as well as the wildlife. They have found that if the people and the livestock are healthy, the wildlife has a better chance of being healthy. In 1996 and again in 2000, a baby gorilla was found with scabies. As they did research, some of the local people had scabies and the gorillas had gotten it from them. TB and dysentery are also hazardous to the gorillas. So their goal is to educate the local people and treat them and their animals in order to conserve the wildlife in the area. Thomas, the lab technician, was interesting, knowledgeable and working with all three (people, livestock, and wildlife) in a unique job opportunity. What a great cause.

Wednesday was a long drive back to Jinja. At least the 2 hours of bad roads were at the beginning and not at the end. The countryside is beautiful – thousands of acres of matooke banana trees and trucks and bicycles loaded with matooke bananas. Lots of tea fields too. Mountains, valleys, greens of every shade. Beautiful!